by Keleka Mobley
If you were like us, you were stuck over here in the States while all the fashionistas of the world were in Paris for Haute Couture Week July 6th-10th to see the biggest names in fashion present their Fall/Winter 2014-15 Haute Couture Collections.
Here are a few of our favorites:
Alexandre Vauthier: Vautheir calls women his heroines. His muses and clientele include Rihanna, Beyoncé, Kim Kardashian, and Rita Ora, so it’s no surprised that his F/W 2014 collection for the Haute Couture Paris spoke of women empowerment. The garments were sensual and glamorous. Studs and leather gave the collection an edgy vibe while fur coats and pearl embellishments added elegance.
Valentino: For this collection Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli modernized aspects of Roman folklore and mythology. Heavy embroidery and pleated tulle created a romantic feel. The Roman toga silhouette was updated with clean lines and leather ceintures. Strappy leather sandals and botanical embroidered motifs gave the collection a rustic elegance.
Zuhair Murad: The intricate geometrical designs in this collection were inspired by the architectural evolution in Beirut, Lebanon; the home base of the designer Zuhair Murad. Zuhair Murad is known for creating garments with classic cocktail and gala silhouettes. The architectural interpretation comes to light in the geometric embellishments.
Jean Paul Gaultier: Controversial designer Jean Paul Gaultier is always pushing the boundaries of what is fashionable and what is tacky. This is evident in the gold chain prints seen in his A/W 2014 haute couture show. He is also known for his interesting choice in models. His garments have been modeled by transgender, pregnant, and elder women. Therefore it shouldn’t have been a surprise when bearded drag queen, Conchita Wurst, walked down the runway modeling a black wedding gown. Overall the collection was black, red and full of dramatic glam!
Maison Martin Margiela: This collection was described as a “collective memory of haute couture” in the show’s program. The garments were thoughtfully pieced together using fabric samples collected from trade fairs and flea markets all around Paris and Brussels. Using scraps Margiela was able to create a beautiful and cohesive collection. These Artisanal designs are romantic with a touch of eastern Asia influence. Be sure to check out Maison Martin Margiela’s tumblr for an in-depth look on how each garment was created.
Christian Dior: “I was interested in the process of finding something extremely modern, through something very historical; particularly through a juxtaposition of different themes,” explains Raf Simons. "The historical inspiration is not the justification of the collection; it isn't its entire meaning. What I was attracted to was an idea of architectural construction - that is a very Dior attitude – and how the foundations of one era are based on another, how the future is based on the past; that is what I found fascinating (Dior.com).” Unlike many designers, Simons didn’t restrict himself to one decade for historical inspiration. He explored history as a whole in hope to define modern in a new light. The show had eight sections where silhouettes from the Marie Antoinette era to the flight exploration era were reinterpreted in a very Dior style. Delicate embroidery and embellishments along with a spring-like yet cool color selection keep the collection elegant and cohesive. Raf Simon share more about his inspiration on Dior.com
The full schedule was as follows (links bring you to Vogue Italia's coverage for each couture designer):
July 6th
19.30 - Atelier Versace
July 7th
10.00 - Schiaparelli
12.30 - On Aura Tout Vu
14.30 - Christian Dior
19.30 - Giambattista Valli
20.30 - Alexis Mabille
July 8th
10.00 - Chanel
13.30 - Bouchra Jarrar
14.30 - Stéphane Rolland
16.00 - Julien Fournié
17.30 - Armani Privé
19.00 - Alexandre Vauthier
July 9th
10.00 - Maison Martin Margiela
12.30 - Elie Saab
16.30 - Vionnet
14.30 - Jean Paul Gaultier
18.00 - Valentino
20.00 - Viktor & Rolf
July 10th
12.00 - Zuhair Murad
Sources: WGSN and Vogue
Be sure to check back for our update on Berlin Fashion Week!!! Coming soon to the geminijunemoon blog!